What option parts do I need to buy with my IF14-2?
There has been a lot of questions on what options are needed with the IF14-2 and what they do. The stock kit doesn't come with extra sway bars, different shock mount bushings then the standard 0, different aluminum suspension plates then the standard 0, or springs. The number one question we get is, "What option parts do I need to buy?" I will do my best to break this down into needed option parts and optional option parts. Please keep in mind most of this information is coming from a few months of testing on a few American tracks with different drivers across the United States. We are in communications with the factory team drivers frequently when we can't confidently answer your question.
What comes with the kit:
-1.3 Front Sway Bar (T060-1.3)
-1.2 Rear Sway Bar (T061-1.2)
-2.9lbs/in stock springs (Front and Rear)
-T004B - Plastic Bearing Holder Mount Set
-T222-0 (Zero) Shock mount bushings (4x)
-T182-0 (Zero) Aluminum Suspension Plate (2x)
-T182-0.4 (.4mm) Aluminum Suspension Plate (2x)
-T228 - Aluminum Top Deck Mount - FIXED
-T015B - Suspension Pills
-T178-44.5 - Rear Rear Aluminum Lower Suspension Block
-T178-46.0 - Front Front Aluminum Lower Suspension Block
-T179-46.0 - Front Rear Aluminum Lower Suspension Block
-T180L-40.0 - Rear Front Left Aluminum Lower Suspension Block
-T180R-40.0 - Rear Front Right Aluminum Lower Suspension Block
-T185-8.5 - Aluminum Steering Plate (8.5mm)
-T043B - 5mm Aluminum Hex Wheel Hub
What option parts are needed and why:
-1.2 and 1.4 front sway bar (T060-1.2 & T060-1.4) - Can be bought as a set now too (T060)
- Adjust Front Lateral Traction for more or less roll
-1.1 and 1.3 rear sway bar (T061-1.1 & T060-1.3) - Can be bought as a set now too (T061)
- Adjust Rear Lateral Traction for more or less roll
-Different assortment of springs anywhere from 2.4lbs/in to 3.2lbs/in. SMJ does make optional springs but any standard 20mm electric touring car spring will work.
-Needed for different track layouts, surfaces, and traction in order to fine tune corner speed, stability on and off power, and steering response/feeling.
-T222-0.4, T222-0.8, T222-1.2 - Optional Shock Mount Bushings
-Needed to change the incline and lever ratio of shock angle. Can keep the same lever ratio but move shock position closer to chassis or closer to wheels for different traction characteristics
-T182-0.4, T182-0.8, T182-1.2 - Optional Aluminum Suspension Plate
-Needed to change the incline and lever ratio of shock angle. Can keep the same lever ratio but move shock position closer to chassis or closer to wheels for different traction characteristics
-T243 - Aluminum Top Deck Bridge - FLEX
-This seems to be the go to for all drivers. The flex top deck bridge allows lateral flex increasing rear traction.
-T185-8.0 - Aluminum Steering Plate 8.0mm
-Helps increase corner speed while reducing steering response. Definitely a must for stock racing but not necessarily needed for modified.
-T201-0.2 & T201-0.4 - Lower Suspension Holder Space
-Can fine tune rear toe up or down by .2 or .4 without having to adjust pills or take the rear end of the car apart.
What are nice option parts to have:
-T100 & T101 - 4.5mm & 4.25mm Aluminum Hex Wheel Hub
-Helps fine tune track width which in turn can increase or decrease traction, stability, and steering response
-T162 - Aluminum Suspension Eccentric Holders
-The aluminum suspension eccentrics allow for .5mm adjustments of diff height versus the .3mm adjustments of the standard plastic ones.
-T179-44.5 - Front Rear Aluminum Suspension Block used with T178-44.5 (FF and RR are interchangeable)
-Narrowing up the front of the car reduces track width and can provide a quicker steering response and more front traction.
-T246 & T247 - Low Friction Belts
-Used to help "free up" the drive train
-T240 & T241 - Aluminum Out Drives
-Used to reduce the rotating mass on the drive train
What have we tested so far:
There has been lots of testing from different American drivers and a few things have become a staple of all of our setups. The flex top deck bridge really allows the driver to drive the car harder and feel more confident in the car since its generating more lateral flex towards the rear of the car.
The stock setup is very close to being competitive in the United States on different surfaces and tracks. The biggest adjustment we are seeing is spring choice since the stock springs are a bit stiff for most surfaces. If you were to buy the kit, the flex bridge, and springs, you can hit the track and be competitive. Some of us are running different roll centers or rear sway bars but the front of the car is predominately the same across all drivers.
The "setup window" on the car is very wide and can suit your driving style. Unlike some cars where the majority of drivers have to run the same setup in order to be fast, we are seeing drivers be able to tune the car to their driving style and still be fast. One test two drivers tried were soft springs front and rear (2.4F/2.5R) compared to harder springs (2.9F/3.0R). Both drivers tested both setups on the same track and the lap times stayed within .1 tenth of the other. The difference came down to how hard you could drive the car and how hard you could turn the wheel. We didn't expect the lap times to be that close but they were. So far, stock rear roll centers, 1.2 sway bar, 2.7-3.0 rear spring, and 2-2.5 degrees of rear toe will get any driver close to their ideal setup.
A Cut Topdeck? - Yes, we tested this too as drivers overseas (Jilles and Jitse) have been showing this on their setups. In our testing, stock and modified, it allowed for more flex which seemed to reduce steering response and lock in the car a bit more. In the testing for stock, it did feel like it took away too much corner speed and lap time did fall a few tenths but you could drive the car extremely hard and never lose rear grip. This would be used when traction is lower to help increase rear grip or in a modified class to improve stability.
Passive Rear Suspension (PRS) - this is not needed for stock racing and designed more for modified. When the traction is medium to high and the surface is smooth, PRS may not be needed in modified either. Or, if you are running on a softer tire, or a tire that generates more grip, PRS is not needed. PRS definitely helps lock in the rear for the faster classes since it adds a rear weight bias and allows for more rear toe under compression.
How is the car on black carpet? - In testing and hearing customer feedback, the car is competitive on carpet despite the criticism of not being a true mid-motor car. It generates enough traction and the large setup window allows the drive to adjust for driving style. At a local and state level it has been able to compete with the mid motor xrays along with the carpet dominating Awesomatix chassis. Not enough big race testing has been done and we will hopefully have a team ready for the snowbirds.
"It Generates so much grip and corner speed" - This has been one of the most promising things we have seen, heard, and felt with the car. The majority of customers who have switched to an Infinity have said this in some fashion. Also, those same customers are setting new personal best lap times at their home tracks with a car they have maybe used once, sometimes with their first weekend with the car.
We look forward to whats to come and we will continue testing, communicating, and building off of this already dominate platform.